ANALIZA METALNIH NITI U POVIJESNOM HRVATSKOM TEKSTILU OD 17. DO 20. STOLJEĆA - UDIO METALA, SASTAV I STRUKTURA PREĐE

doctoral thesis

• Title (english): ANALYSIS OF METAL THREADS IN THE HISTORICAL CROATIAN TEXTILE FROM 17th TO 20th CENTURY – METAL CONTENT, COMPOSITION AND STRUCTURE OF THE YARN
• Author: Kristina Šimić
• Mentor: Ivo Soljačić (mentor); MBZ: 57132
• Mentor: Tihana Petrović Leš (komentor)
• Committee member: Tanja Pušić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Stana Kovačević (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Domagoj Mudronja (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Ivo Soljačić (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Tihana Petrović Leš (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2020-10-29, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile Chemistry
• Universal decimal classification (UDC): 677 - Textile industry

Abstract

Doktorska disertacija bavi se analizom metalnih niti u povijesnom hrvatskom tekstilu, liturgijskom ruhu i narodnim nošnjama od 17. do 20. stoljeća. Obuhvaćeno je područje cijele Hrvatske, sve regije u kojima se pojavljuju metalne niti na povijesnom tekstilu, na način i u opsegu na koji to do sada nije istraženo. Prikupljene su i analizirane samostalne lamele, žice i srme nastale kombinacijom metalne niti omotane oko nemetalne tekstilne pređe. Primjenom fizikalno-kemijskih metoda SEM-EDX (pretražni elektronski mikroskop s energijsko disperzivnim detektorom X-zraka), XRF (uređaj za rendgensku fluorescenciju) i PIXE (česticama inducirana emisija rendgenskog zračenja) provedena je analiza sastava i udjela metala u nitima. Usporedbom metoda utvrđeno je kako je SEM-EDX najpogodnija za analizu povijesnog tekstila ako se radi i analiza poprečnog presjeka jer je brza, jednostavna i nedestruktivna. Analizom poprečnog presjeka metalnih niti SEM-EDX metodom određeno je jesu li metalne niti homogene ili pozlaćene ili posrebrene. Sastav i struktura nemetalne tekstilne pređe srma određeni su svjetlosnim mikroskopom. Metalne niti uglavnom su se izrađivale od zlata, srebra ili bakra te njihovih legura, ali se u posljednje vrijeme koriste manje vrijedni metali koji imaju sličan sjaj. Nemetalne tekstilne niti u srmi najčešće su od svile, pamuka i lana. Cilj je bio utvrditi koje su vrste i sastavi metalnih niti korišteni u različitim regijama Hrvatske što može poslužiti kao baza podataka pri restauraciji i konzervaciji vrijednog povijesnog tekstila. Također, po sastavu metalnih niti mogu se odrediti tehnologija izrade niti i približno vremenska i prostorna datacija tekstilnih predmeta.

Abstract (english)

The doctoral dissertation deals with the analysis of metal threads in historical Croatian textiles, liturgical vestments and folk costumes from the 17th to the 20th century. The area of the whole of Croatia is covered, all regions in which metal threads appear on historical textiles, in a way and to the extent that has not been researched so far. The independent narrow stripes and wires, and the srma that was formed by a combination of metal thread wrapped around non-metal textile yarn were collected and analysed. Using physicochemical methods SEM-EDX (scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector), XRF (X-ray Fluorescence) and PIXE (Particle Induced X-ray Emission), the analysis of the composition and content of metals in the threads was performed. By comparing the methods, it was determined that the SEM-EDX is the most suitable for the analysis of historical textiles if cross-sectional analysis is also performed, because it is fast, simple and non-destructive. By cross-sectional analysis of metal threads with the SEM-EDX method, it was determined whether the metal threads were homogeneous or gilded, or silver-plated. The composition and structure of non-metal textile yarn were determined by light microscopy. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver or copper and their alloys, but lately less valuable metals having a similar shine have generally been used. Non-metal textile threads in srma are most often made of silk, cotton and linen. The aim was to determine which types and composition of metal threads were used in different regions of Croatia, which can serve as a database for the restoration and conservation of valuable historical textiles. Also, according to the composition of metal threads, the technology of production threads can be determined and the temporal and spatial dating of textile objects can be determined approximately.

• Keywords: metalne niti; srma; hrvatski povijesni tekstil; liturgijsko ruho; narodne nošnje; SEM-EDX; XRF; PIXE
• Keywords (english): metal threads; srma; Croatian historical textiles; liturgical vestments; folk costumes; SEM-EDX; XRF; PIXE
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:101679
• Promotion: 2021
• Study programme: Title: Textile Science and Technology; Study programme type: university; Study level: postgraduate; Academic / professional title: doktor/doktorica znanosti, područje tehničkih znanosti, polje tekstilna tehnologija (doktor/doktorica znanosti, područje tehničkih znanosti, polje tekstilna tehnologija)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2021-02-22 08:02:52