Značenje crne boje u modi: semiotička analiza

master's thesis

• Author: Mirna Gvozden
• Mentor: Žarko Paić (mentor)
• Committee member: Katarina Nina Simončič (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Žarko Paić (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Tonči Valentić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2020-09-28, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

Crna boja prožima svijet od samog početka odijevanja do industrijske revolucije i pojave mode kakvu poznajemo danas. Ona je postala znak koji se uzima i koristi da bi čovjek opisao svoje stavove, postojanje i djelovanje. Nekada davno kroz neznanje i praznovjerje, kroz pravila odijevanja u srednjem vijeku, preko industrijske revolucije i crnog odjela, umjetnika i egzistencijalista, male crne haljine Coco Chanel, anarhista, pankera, glamuroznih 90-ih, crna boja je uvijek prisutan znak kako modni tako i antimodni, sve do danas kada je crni ekran simbol beskrajnih (prividnih) mogućnosti umreženog svijeta.
Ona oduvijek izranja, nekada jača nekada slabija iz centra ili iz sjene, uvijek prisutna i kao mat i kao sjajna, bez obzira što su se razlike u lingvistici izgubile.
Promatrati tijek postojanje crne boje u spektaklu života/mode znači razumjeti i povijest i sadašnjost i budućnost, znači prihvatiti i razumjeti suprotnosti ater i niger pojmova u kontekstu ambivalencije same mode.

Abstract (english)

The black color permeates the world from the first clothes to the industrial revolution and the emergence of fashion as we know it today. It has become a sign that has been taken and used to describe one's attitudes, existence and actions. It has been present in ancient times through its ignorance and superstition and through the dress code in the Middle Ages; through the industrial revolution and the black suit, through the works of artists and existentialists and the little black dress of Coco Chanel; through anarchists, punks and the glamorous 90s. It has been always present as a sign of both fashion and anti-fashion, until today when the black screen is a symbol of the endless (apparent) possibilities of the networked world. It always emerges, sometimes stronger sometimes weaker, from the center or from the shadow but always present both as matte as well as glossy, disregarding that differences in linguistics have been lost. To observe the course of the existence of black in the spectacle of life / fashion means to understand history, present and future. It means to accept and understand the opposites of ater and niger concepts in the context of the ambivalence of fashion itself.

• Keywords: moda; crna boja; znak; ambivalentnost
• Keywords (english): fashion; black color; sign; ambivalence
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:964776
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Costume Design, Fashion Theory and Culture; Course: Fashion Theory and Culture; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2020-10-07 11:23:27