Utjecaj Cristobala Balenciage na suvremenu modu

undergraduate thesis

• Title (english): THE INFLUENCE OF CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA ON CONTEMPORARY FASHION
• Author: Marija Miljanović
• Mentor: Katarina Nina Simončič (mentor)
• Committee member: Katarina Nina Simončič (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Irena Šabarić (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2017-09-18, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

Tema rada analiza je kreativnog doprinosa Cristóbala Balenciage estetici suvremenih
modnih dizajnera na kontekstualnoj povijesno-kulturalnoj podlozi europske visoke mode
sredinom 20. stoljeća. Posebna pažnja posvećena je Parizu, gdje ujedno u 50-im i 60-im
godinama nastaju najznačajniji radovi koji odjeke šalju u siluetu mode druge polovice
stoljeća. Centralna os analize kreće se linijom neobičnih i revolucionarnih volumena koje
dizajner umeće između ženina tijela i odjeće, rušeći tako standardizirani model ženske
siluete pješčanog sata. Osvrtom na nekoliko modnih dizajnera druge polovice 20. st. i
početka 21. stoljeća slijedila sam logičnu progresiju ideje i mutacije siluete, koja,
premještena iz konteksta haute couture mode u doba još njene legitimne vezanosti za
društvo, nastavlja dalje u postmodernoj modi kroz hiperdimenzionirane naglaske,
posebice analizirane kod dizajnera japanskog podrijetla koji dijele jednaku
eksperimentalnu i plastičnu kvalitetu koju uočavamo u radovima Cristóbala Balenciage.

Abstract (english)

The paper explores the creative contribution of Cristóbal Balenciaga to the aesthetics of
contemporary fashion designers within the context of historical and cultural backdrop of
European high fashion of the mid 20th century. A fair amount of attention was given to
Paris, where the most significant work was produced during the 50's and 60's, which
continues to perpetuate its echoes through the fashion silhouette of the second half of the
20th century. The axis of the paper is concentrated along the lines of unusual and
revolutionary volumes which the designer inserts between the women's body and the
clothes, and by doing so tears down the standardized model of the female hour glass
silhouette. By analyzing a few designers of the second half of the century and the
beginning of the 21st century I followed a logical progression of ideas and the silhouette
mutability, which, translated from the haute couture fashion still tied to its legitimate
connections to the social, continues on within the postmodern fashion through hyperIII
inflated accents, especially revised through the work of Japanese designers, which share
the same experimental and plastic quality observed in Cristóbal Balenciaga's work.

• Keywords: Cristóbal Balenciaga; moda; silueta; volumen; haute couture; ready-to-wear; Pariz; Japan
• Keywords (english): Cristóbal Balenciaga; fashion; silhouette; volume; haute couture; ready-to-wear; Paris; Japan
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:314397
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design; Course: Fashion Design; Study programme type: university; Study level: undergraduate; Academic / professional title: sveučilišni/a prvostupnik/ prvostupnica (baccalaureus/baccalaurea) inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (sveučilišni/a prvostupnik/ prvostupnica (baccalaureus/baccalaurea) inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2020-10-01 10:59:21