Abstract U doktorskom radu je istražen utjecaj konstrukcijskih parametara (konstrukcijski dodatak komocije odjevnog predmeta i duljina kroja odjevnog predmeta) na toplinska svojstva muških jakni, izražena kao vrijednost efektivne toplinske izolacije, i zadovoljstvo ispitanika podvrgnutih testiranjima u kontroliranim uvjetima. Potom je provedeno ocjenjivanje utjecaja prohladnih toplina okoliša i izrađenih odjevnih predmeta na zadovoljstvo ispitanika, odnosno toplinsku ugodnost. Subjektivna percepcija toplinske ugodnosti pri nošenju ispitivane odjeće u specifičnim uvjetima okoliša vrednovana je analizom ocjena ispitanika koji su za vrijeme laboratorijskih ispitivanja ispunjavali upitnike s razrađenim ljestvicama subjektivnog ocjenjivanja. Istovremeno su praćeni uvjeti okoliša i mjerene vrijednosti fizioloških reakcija tijela (prosječna temperatura kože tijela i vlažnost kože) na zadane uvjete okoliša. Ispitivanje utjecaja iznosa konstrukcijskog dodatka komocije na toplinska svojstva odjevnog predmeta provedena su na modelu muške letačke vjetrovke izvedene u četiri varijante (svaka se varijanta modela razlikuje u iznosu konstrukcijskog dodatka komocije). Ispitivanje utjecaja duljine kroja na toplinska svojstva odjevnog predmeta provedena su na modelu muške nautičarske vjetrovke modularne izvedbe s odvojivim nastavcima za promjenu duljine kroja. Termalnim manekenom utvrđena su izolacijska svojstva izrađenih jakni, a potom su ispitanici izvođenjem određenih fizičkih aktivnosti u kontroliranim uvjetima klima komore subjektivno ocijenili toplinsku ugodnost odjevnih sustava i jakni. Rezultatima je dokazano je da se prilagođavanjem konstrukcijskih parametra u procesu konstruiranja odjevnih predmeta (muških jakni) može utjecati na konačna toplinska svojstva odjevnih predmeta i da postoji povezanost između iznosa konstrukcijskog dodatka komocije i izmjerene vrijednosti efektivne toplinske izolacije muške jakne i povezanost između duljine muške jakne i izmjerene vrijednosti efektivne toplinske izolacije muške jakne. Također je dokazano da postoji korelacija između vrijednosti efektivne toplinske izolacije odjevnih predmeta i fizioloških varijabli tijela (vrijednost prosječne temperature kože tijela i relativne vlažnosti kože te gubitaka težine ispitanika), kojima se procjenjuje stupanj toplinske ugodnosti i da postoji korelacija između efektivne toplinske izolacije odjevnih sustava i ocjena ispitanika kojima se procjenjuje stupanj toplinske ugodnosti. Dodatno je istraženo vertikalno strujanje toplijeg zraka u više prostore mikroklime kada je ljudsko tijelo u pokretu.
Abstract (english) This doctoral thesis investigates an impact of constructional parameters (ease allowance value and length of clothing garment) on thermal properties of male jackets, expressed as value of effective thermal insulation, as well as satisfaction of the examinees which undergo testing under controlled environmental conditions. Afterwards, an assessment of impact of cool environments and tailor-made clothing garments on satisfaction of examinees was conducted, respectively their influence on thermal comfort was assessed. Subjective perception of thermal comfort while wearing tested clothing in specific environmental conditions was valorised by analysing examinees’ grades, which underwent laboratory trials and completed forms with elaborated subjective judgement scales. Simultaneously, environmental conditions were monitored and physiological reactions of examinees (mean skin temperature and humidity of skin) were measured. The impact of pattern ease allowance on thermal properties of clothing garment were investigated on model of men’s flying wind-proof jacket produced in four variants (each variant differs in amount of ease allowance added to chest and waist circumference). The impact of pattern length on thermal properties of clothing garment was investigated on model of men’s nautical wind-proof jacket produced as modular garment with attachable extensions for pattern length variations. Thermal insulation properties of produced jackets were measured with thermal mannequin and afterwards the examinees, which performed defined physical activities in controlled environmental conditions inside climatic chamber, made subjective evaluation of thermal comfort of clothing garments and ensembles. Two models of male jacket were constructed and made. First model of male jacket is pilot bomber jacket in size 50, but was made in 4 different variants. Each variant was made by adding higher value of ease allowance to chest and waist circumference in garment pattern modification so that the impact of ease allowance value on effective thermal insulation of male jackets can be investigated. Second model of male jacket is modular parka jacket. It consists of one basic module and four applicative modules which can be attached to the basis of the jacket. This model was developed to determine the impact of jacket length on values of effective thermal insulation of clothing garment. Both selected garments and clothing ensembles’’ effective thermal insulation values were determined with thermal mannequin. Basic research problems addressed in this doctoral thesis were: 1) How do constructional parameters affect thermal properties of clothing?, 1a)How much does changes in ease allowance impact the values of effective thermal insulation of male jackets?, 1b) How much does changes in length of jackets impact the values of effective thermal insulation?, 2) Is there correlation between effective thermal insulation of garments and physiological responses of human body?, 3) Is there correlation between effective thermal insulation of ensembles and grades which examinees give while evaluating satisfaction with thermal comfort of clothing?, 4) Does chimney effect or vertical current of hot air occurs in clothing microclimate while the body is moving? Hypothesis appointed upon those questions are: 1) Constructional parameters of clothing affect final thermal properties of clothing garment. 1a) There is connection between the values of ease allowance to chest and waist circumference in garment pattern modification and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. 1b) There is connection between the values of total jacket length in garment pattern modification and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. 2) There is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing garments and physiological outputs of human body (mean skin temperature and humidity of skin), which are means of evaluating thermal comfort. 3) There is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing ensembles and grades of examinees, which are means of evaluating thermal comfort. 4) With body moving, the air with higher temperatures, which is trapped inside microclimatic layer, will start to rise vertically to higher spheres and chimney effect will occur. Than examinees were asked to do laboratory evaluation of selected clothing ensembles, which included those jackets under specific thermal environments. While conducting laboratory testing they were given questionnaire to assess the influence of clothing and environment using subjective judgement scales. Afterwards their answers were compared to values of determined insulation values of clothing ensembles and their physiological responses. Results have shown that by customizing constructional parameters in garment pattern modification, one can affect the final thermal properties of clothing garments and that there is connection between the values of ease allowance to chest and waist circumference and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. Also it was proven that there is connection between the values of total jacket length and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. In addition, it was demonstrated that there is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing garments and physiological outputs of human body (mean skin temperature and humidity of skin), which are means of evaluating thermal comfort, and that there is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing ensembles and grades of examinees, which are means of evaluating thermal comfort. Furthermore, there is evidence that the air with higher temperatures, which is trapped inside microclimatic layer, will start to rise vertically to higher spheres and chimney effect will occur while movements of body.
Keywords
Konstrukcijski parametri
konstrukcijski dodatak komocije odjevnog predmeta
duljina kroja odjevnog predmeta
toplinska svojstva muških jakni
efektivna toplinska izolacija odjeće
subjektivna percepcija toplinske ugodnosti
Keywords (english)
Constructional parameters
ease allowance of clothing garment
the length of clothing garment
thermal properties of male jackets
effective thermal insulation of clothing
subjective judgement of thermal comfort
