Kolorimetrijska analiza uzoraka bojadisanih prirodnim bojilima

undergraduate thesis

• Author: Vedrana Peček
• Mentor: Martinia Ira Glogar (mentor)
• Committee member: Ana Sutlović (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Koraljka Kovač Dugandžić (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Lea Popinjač (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2020-09-17, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

U radu je provedeno bojadisanje pamučnog tekstilnog materijala prirodnim bojilima te je provedena kolorimetrijska analiza temeljena na objektivnom spektrofotometrijskom mjerenju obojenih uzoraka, s ciljem utvrđivanja preciznih vrijednosti kolorističkih parametara za svaki uzorak. Sva bojila dobivena iz biljnih izvora nemaju isti afinitet prema vlaknu, te se u svrhu poticanja reakcije bojilo-vlakno i postizanja dubljih obojenja s većim postojanostima koriste močila i predobrade tekstila. Pristup pripreme bojadisarske kupelji se razlikuje ovisno o tome radi li se sa cvijećem, svježim ili suhim lišćem, korom plodova ili korom drveća i na kraju korijenjem biljaka. Osim ekstrakcije bojila, tekstili su bili predobrađeni za bojadisanje. Za predobradu su u radu korišteni alaun, pripravak od hrđavih čavlića u octu i vodi, samo ocat te na kraju kravlje i sojino mlijeko. Uzorci su mjereni spektrofotometrijski, te je izrađena ton karta. Kako bi povezali održivi dizajn i dizajn tekstila s tehnologijom bojadisanja, kao završni produkt napravljeni su kućni i modni tekstili u shibori tehnici. Glavna ideja je bila napraviti proizvode čija „slow- fashion“ proizvodnja kreće s prikupljanjem i pripremom materijala i bojila, te na kraju i samim bojadisanjem.

Abstract (english)

In tis paper the cotton textile material is dyed with natural dyes and colorimetric analysis based on objective spectrophotometric measurement of colored samples is performed, with the aim of determining accurate values of color parameters for each sample. All dyes obtained from plant sources do not have the same affinity for fiber, and in order to stimulate the dye-fiber reaction and achieve deeper colors with greater consistency, wetting and textile pretreatment are used. The approach to preparing a dyeing bath differs depending on whether it was worked with flowers, fresh or dried leaves, bark or the roots of plants. In addition to dye extraction, the textiles were pre-treated for dyeing. For pre-treatment, alaun, a preparation of rusty nails in vinegar and water, only vinegar and finally cow's and soy milk were used. The dyed samples were measured spectrophotometrically, and a samples map was made. In order to connect sustainable design and textile design with dyeing technology, home and fashion textiles in the shibori technique were made as the final product. The main idea was to make products whose "slow-fashion" production starts with the collection and preparation of dyes, and finally the dyeing itself.

• Keywords: prirodna bojila; bojadisanje; održivi dizajn; kolorimetrija; pamuk
• Keywords (english): natural dyes; dyeing; sustainable design; colorimetry; cotton
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:167436
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design; Course: Textile Design; Study programme type: university; Study level: undergraduate; Academic / professional title: sveučilišni/a prvostupnik/ prvostupnica (baccalaureus/baccalaurea) inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (sveučilišni/a prvostupnik/ prvostupnica (baccalaureus/baccalaurea) inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2020-10-08 09:59:34