Suvremene (re)interpretacije povijesne haljine Marije Antoanete

master's thesis

• Author: Dora Prah
• Mentor: Snježana Vego (mentor)
• Mentor: Ivana Bakal (pomoć pri izradi, neposredni voditelj)
• Committee member: Slavica Bogović (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Snježana Vego (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Ivana Bakal (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Andrea Pavetić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2019-09-26, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology

Abstract

Ovaj diplomski rad započinje povješću o životu kraljice Marije Antoanete od djetinjstva pa sve do njenog kraja kada je pogubljena u Parizu pred očima naroda. Nakon udaje za francuskog prijestolonasljednika, zbog nezadovoljstva počinje živjeti rastrošno, što se francuskom narodu nikako nije svidjelo. U pokušaju promjene slike u javnosti davala je izrađivati svoje portrete na kojima se nerijetko pojavljivala i sa svojom djecom. Bila je pokroviteljica slikarice Le Brun koja je kasnije postala i njena službena portretistica. Poznata je njena slika Chemise koja je portret Marije Antoanete odjevene u muslin haljinu, i koja je u tadašnje vrijeme bila presedan. Bila je neprimjerena za tadašnje francuske standarde. Postoje dvije takve haljine koje su pronađene i izložene u muzeju. Primjer Marije Antoanete u muslin haljini slijedile su mnoge dame poslije nje.
U radu se dalje obrađuje odijevanje 18. stoljeća kroz sve segmente odjevnih predmeta. Također se govori o filmovima baziranima na životu Marije Antoanete i analizira filmskih kostima. Detaljno je opisan njezin najpoznatiji portret na kojem nosi chemise haljinu koja je zbog prozirnosti bila revolucionarna u ono doba. Upravo ta haljina se obrađuje u eksperimentalnom dijelu, u kojem je priložena mapa s 15 crteža. Kroz opis postupka i sve faze nastajanja, pratimo odabir materijala i izradu konstrukcije sve do same realizacije odabranog kostima.

Abstract (english)

This master's thesis starts with history about life of Queen Marie Antoinette, from her early childhood to her death when she was publicly executed in Paris. After her marriage to French heir and because of her dissatisfaction, she starts to live the life of waste and excess, which only fueled the hatred of French people. In the attempt to change her public image, she usually appeared in portraits with her children. She was the patron of the French painter Le Brun who later became her official portrait painter. She is famous for her painting Chemise dress which is a portrait of Marie Antoinette dressed in a muslin dress, which was revolutionary at that time and inappropriate for the French standards. There are only two dresses of that kind that have been found and exhibited in the museum. Many ladies followed the example of Marie and started dressing more simple.
Thesis elaborates the period of dressing in 18th century with all the segments of the clothing. It is about films based on the life of Marie Antoinette and there are also costume analysis. Most famous portrait of hers in which she wears muslin dress is described in detail. That dress was revolutionary at that time because of its transparency. That dress is also the center of attention in the experimental part of thesis where the collection of 15 drawings is also enclosed. Through description of the procedure and all the phases of formation, the selection of the materials and making of the construction can be seen. In the end there is the final realization of the costume with the conclusion.

• Keywords: Marija Antoaneta; portret; odijevanje; muslin haljina; chemise dress; 18. stoljeće
• Keywords (english): Marie Antoinette; portrait; dressing; muslin dress; chemise dress; 18th century
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:726505
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Costume Design, Fashion Theory and Culture; Course: Costume Design; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Closed access
• Created on: 2019-11-11 09:38:43