Transgresija modnih statusnih simbola u dvadesetom stoljeću

master's thesis

• Title (english): Transgression of fashion status symbols in the twentieth century
• Author: Marta Boko
• Mentor: Katarina Nina Simončič (mentor)
• Committee member: Jasminka Končić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Katarina Nina Simončič (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2019-09-26, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology

Abstract

Diplomski rad pobliţe će objasniti i istraţiti transgresiju supkulturnih simbola tijekom dvadesetog stoljeća u masovno proizvedenu robu i stilove. Na primjeru punka i hip-hopa, rad će analizirat načine izraţavanja supkulturnog identiteta kroz njihovu odjeću i glazbu. TakoĎer, analizirat će se povijesni kontekst nastanka tih supkultura, njihovo okruţenje, društveno-ekonomski poloţaj i njihova unutrašnja razmišljanja i stavovi. Istraţuje se postupno širenje njihovih utjecaja kroz televiziju, filmove, glazbu i rastuću medijsku eksponiranost.
Sredinom stoljeća javlja se niz supkulturnih pokreta s jedinstvenim stilovima odijevanja. Punk i hip-hop tek su neki od brojnih stilova nastalih u drugoj polovici dvadesetog stoljeća. Pokreti su dijelili zajednički, jedinstveni jezik ulice, njihovi pripadnici dolazili su s margina društva, odrastali su u teškim uvjetima, a vrijednosti i pravila dominantne klase im nisu ništa značili. Njihova glazba, odjeća i stav odstupali su od mainstream kulture, zvuk i izgled obje supkulturne skupine izravno su kritizirali i odbacivali dominantnu klasu. Upravo to kršenje pravila i normi osiguralo im je veliku medijsku eksponiranost i privlačenje mnogobrojne publike. Uz medijsku pokrivenost i rastuću popularnost, simboli otpora postupno se inkorporiraju u mainstream, gubeći tako subverzivno značenje. Iako su oba pokreta naizgled bila šokantna i neshvatljiva za dominantnu kulturu, u kratkom vremenu, razrijeĎene verzije tih stilova i elemenata kulture masovno se šire i prihvaćaju. Ovakav proces zamagljuje izvorna supkulturna značenja, pretvoreni u masovno proizvedenu robu, oni gube svaki trag subverzije i otpora.

Abstract (english)

The thesis will explain and explore more closely the transgression of subcultural symbols into mass produced goods and styles during the twentieth century. Using punk and hip-hop, as a case study, the paper will analyze ways of expressing subcultural identity through their clothing and music. It will also analyze the historical context of the emergence of these subcultures, their environment, socio-economic status, and their internal reflections and attitudes. It explores the gradual dissemination of their influences through television, films, music and growing media exposure.
In the mid-twentieth century, a series of subcultural movements emerged with unique dressing style. Punk and hip-hop are one of many styles created in the second half of the twentieth century. The movements shared a common, unique street language, their members came from the margins of society, they grew up in difficult conditions, and the values and rules of the dominant class did not have a meaning to them. Their music, clothing and attitude deviated from mainstream culture, and the sound and appearance of both subcultural groups directly criticized and rejected the dominant class. It was this violation of the rules and norms that enabled them great media exposure and attracted a large audience. With media coverage and growing popularity, the symbols of resistance were gradually incorporated into the mainstream, thus losing their subversive meaning. Although both movements appeared to be shocking and incomprehensible to the dominant culture, in the short term, diluted versions of these styles and elements of culture have been widely spread and embraced. Such a process obscures the original subcultural meanings, which transformed into mass produced goods, lose any trace of subversion and resistance.

• Keywords: transgresija; hip-hop; punk; komercijalizacija; modni simboli
• Keywords (english): transgression; hip-hop; punk; commercialization; fashion symbols
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:673629
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Costume Design, Fashion Theory and Culture; Course: Fashion Theory and Culture; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Access restricted to students and staff of home institution
• Created on: 2019-11-08 12:48:03