Title RAZVOJ OSNOVNIH SILUETA ŽENSKE ODJEĆE PRILAGOĐENE TEMELJNIM POSTAVKAMA ODRŽIVOSTI U MODI Title (english) THE DEVELOPMENT OF BASIC SILHOUETTES OF WOMEN'S CLOTHING ADAPTED TO THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION Author Franka Karin Mentor Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović (mentor)Committee member Irena Šabarić Škugor (predsjednik povjerenstva)Committee member Renata Hrženjak (član povjerenstva)Committee member Andreja Rudolf Granter University of Zagreb Defense date and country 2025, Croatia Scientific / art field, TECHNICAL SCIENCES Universal decimal classificationUDC ) 677 - Textile industry Abstract Održivi razvoj od velike je važnosti za proizvodne procese kako bi se očuvala ekologija i prirodni resursi zbog čega se razvio pristup u dizajnu odjeće koji poštuje aspekte održivog razvoja i koncepta bez otpada što je temeljna postavka ovog doktorskog rada. U Uvodu se ističe važnost zadovoljavanja pet osnovnih kriterija tijekom dizajnerskog procesa kao što je estetika odjevnog predmeta, pristalost, ekonomska isplativost, međukrojni gubitak i mogućnost proizvodnje. U poglavlju Pregled tematike objašnjava se pojam silueta odjeće, njihov razvoj kroz povijesna razdoblja do danas. Opisan je rad dizajnera kojima je silueta ženske odjeće ključni element u njihovim modnim kolekcijama, s naglaskom na siluete oblika „T“, „A“,“ X„ i „I“, koje se u doktorskom radu postavljaju u fokus temeljnih postavki istraživanja. Opisuju se tipovi i konstitucije ženskog tijela koji u području dizajna imaju ključnu ulogu prilikom odabira odjeće i formiranjem osobnog stila pojedinaca, krojne slike te je objašnjen pojam međukrojnog gubitka, opisan je kriterij pristalosti odjeće, pojam, metode i primjena koncepta bez otpada, naglašava se važnost komunikacije među potrošačima te se pojašnjava računalni program Clo3D koji svoju primjenu nalazi u području dizajna. Cilj ovog doktorskog rada je analizirati postojeće metode koncepta bez otpada i predložiti novu metodu u dizajnu za osnovne siluete ženske odjeće uz maksimalno iskorištenje tkanine, razviti održive smjernice za dizajn i novu metodu osnovnih silueta ženske odjeće te izraditi dizajnersku kolekciju temeljenu na osnovnim siluetama ženske odjeće prema dobivenim smjernicama nove metode. Sukladno ciljevima postavljene su i hipoteze istraživanja. Predstavljen je i opisan plan, varijable i metode istraživanja. Kao rezultat istraživanja razvijena je nova TAXI metoda koncepta bez otpada koja se temelji na dizajnu osnovnih silueta ženske odjeće s maksimalno mogućim iskorištenjem tkanine u svrhu održivosti. Ovim sveobuhvatnim konceptom po načelu održivosti temeljni krojevi se prilagođavaju maksimalnom mogućem iskorištenju tkanine, estetskim kriterijima i pristalosti s ciljem unaprjeđenja proizvodnih procesa prema načelima kružnog gospodarstva.
Abstract (english) Sustainable development is of great importance for production processes in order to preserve ecology and natural resources, which is why an approach has been developed in clothing design that respects aspects of sustainable development and the zero-waste concept, which is the basic premise of this doctoral thesis. The Introduction highlights the importance of meeting five basic criteria during the design process, such as garment aesthetics, fit, economic profitability, cut loss and manufacturability. The topic overview chapter explains the concept of clothing silhouettes and their development through historical periods until today. The work of designers for whom the silhouette of women's clothing is a key element in their fashion collections is described, with an emphasis on the silhouettes of the shapes "T", "A", "X" and "I", which are placed in the focus of the basic settings of the research in the doctoral thesis. The types and constitutions of the female body are described, which in the field of design play a key role when choosing clothes and forming the personal style of individuals, garment cut images, and the concept of intercut loss is explained. The criterion of clothing fit, the concept, methods and application of the no-waste concept are described, the importance of communication between consumers and the computer program Clo3D is emphasized, which finds its application in the field of design. The aim of this doctoral thesis is to analyze the existing methods of the zero-waste concept, to propose a new design method for basic silhouettes of women's clothing with maximum use of fabric, to develop sustainable design guidelines and a new method of basic silhouettes of women's clothing, and to create a design collection based on basic silhouettes of women's clothing according to obtained guidelines of the new method, and research hypotheses were set in accordance with the goals. The research plan, variables and methods are presented and described. As a result of the research, a new TAXI method of the zero-waste concept was developed, which is based on the design of basic silhouettes of women's clothing with the maximum possible use of fabric for the purpose of sustainability. With this comprehensive concept based on the principle of sustainability, basic cuts are adapted to the maximum possible use of fabric, aesthetic criteria and fit with the aim of improving production processes according to the principles of the circular economy.
Keywords
koncept bez otpada
održivi razvoj
osnovne siluete ženske odjeće
međukrojni gubitak
iskorištenje tkanine
Keywords (english)
zero-waste concept
sustainable development
basic silhouettes of women's clothing
intercut loss
utilization of fabric
Language croatian URN:NBN urn:nbn:hr:201:362848 Promotion 2025 Study programme Title: Textile Science and Technology Type of resource Text File origin Born digital Access conditions Access restricted to students and staff of home institution Terms of use Created on 2025-03-06 12:19:22
