Razvoj parametarskog kroja muškog odijela za prilagodbu prema individualnim tjelesnim mjerama i tipovima tijela

master's thesis

• Author: Tena Šumski
• Mentor: Slavenka Petrak (mentor)
• Committee member: Dubravko Rogale (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Slavenka Petrak (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Tomislav Rolich (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Clothing Technology); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2022-09-28, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Clothing Technology

Abstract

Industrijska izrada muških poslovnih odijela po individualnim mjerama, poznata kao masovno šivanje po mjeri (eng. mass customization) sve je više zastupljena na tržištu, pa se sa svrhom ubrzanja procesa konstrukcije pripreme razvijaju parametarski krojevi u računalnim programskim paketima, koji se brzo mogu prilagoditi tjelesnim mjerama kupca. U teorijskom dijelu rada analizirane su glavne i pomoćne tjelesne mjere potrebne za konstrukciju muškog sakoa i hlača, prikazana je podjela tipova tijela prema stasu, uzrastu i držanju tijela te sukladno tome i devijacije koje se manifestiraju na odjeći tijekom nošenja uzrokovane tjelesnim nepravilnostima ili odstupanjima od standardnih mjera. Uspoređene su metode razvoja parametarskih krojeva u računalnim programskim paketima Modulate i Modaris Expert i prikazane su ključne funkcije programskog paketa Modaris Expert korištene u eksperimentalnom dijelu rada. Dio rada realiziran je u suradnji s tvrtkom Varteks, korištenjem programskog paketa Modaris Expert proizvođača Lectra, u kojem je razvijen parametarski kroj muškog sakoa i hlača za prilagodbu prema individualnim tjelesnim mjerama. Razvijeni kroj prilagođen je mjerama skeniranog 3D modela tijela, a kako bi se verificirao razvoj i prilagodba kroja model je prikazan računalnom 3D simulacijom u sustavu Optitex.

Abstract (english)

The industrial production of men's business suits made to measure known as mass customization (mass tailoring) is increasingly growing in the market. To speed up the process of pattern making, parametric patterns are being developed by using specialized computer softwares in which patterns can be quickly adjusted to the customer's body measures. In the theoretical part of the work the main and auxiliary body measures necessary for pattern making of men's jacket and pants have been analyzed, the division of body types and body posture have been presented, and accordingly, the deviations manifested on the clothes during wear caused by body irregularities or deviations from the standard measures. Different methods of developing parametric patterns in a computer softwares Modulate and Modaris Expert have been compared, and the key functions of the software Modaris Expert used in experimental part of the work have been presented. Part of the work was realized in cooperation with the Varteks company, using software Modaris Expert by Lectra to develop the parametric pattern of men's suit and pants that can be adjusted to individual body measures. The developed parametric patterns were adjusted to the body measures of the scanned 3D body model. In order to verify the development and adjustment of the parametric pattern, the model has been shown as 3D computer simulation in the Optitex system.

• Keywords: industrijsko šivanje po mjeri; parametarski kroj; CAD sustav; muška odijela; tipovi tijela; 3D skeniranje; 3D simulacija
• Keywords (english): mass customization; parametric pattern; CAD system; men's suit; body types; 3D scanning; 3D simulation
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:785550
• Study programme: Title: Textile Technology and Engineering; specializations in: Clothing Engineering, Textile Design and Management, Industrial Textile Design, Industrial Clothing Design, Textile Chemistry, Materials and Ecology, Textile Chemistry, Materials and Ecology; Course: Clothing Engineering; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilne tehnologije i inženjerstva (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilne tehnologije i inženjerstva)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Closed access
• Created on: 2023-01-19 13:48:47