Postmoderna teorija mode:Jean Baudrillard i medijska konstrukcija događaja

master's thesis

• Author: Tamara Lukina
• Mentor: Žarko Paić (mentor)
• Committee member: Žarko Paić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Krešimir Purgar (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2016-09-29, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

U doba postmoderne promjene paradigme mode kultura postaje svrhom identiteta, odnosno specifičnom formom (anti)mode. Moda tek tada postaje jednim od relevantnih teorijskih subjekata interdisciplinarnih studija kulture. Međutim, probojem vizualne kulture sama metodologija kulturalnih studija postaje problematičnom. Osim analize i kritike metodologije kulturalnih studija, u ovome radu biti će predstavljen alternativni pristup postmodernoj modi Jeana Baudrillarda koji pripada paradigmi postmoderne kritike teorija o socijalno-klasnoj diferencijaciji te predstavlja svojevrsnu radikalizaciju postmoderne teorije mode. Nasuprot rasprostranjenijoj paradigmi koja modu sagledava kroz ulične stilove odijevanja, Baudrillard pristupa modi kao estetsko-medijskome sklopu. Realno postojanje mode tek je omogućeno simulakrumom medijskog događaja. Umjesto serijske reproduktivnosti, sada modulacija obuhvaća poredak proizvodnje pa stoga prema Baudrillardu svjedočimo determinizmu operacionalne simulacije, odnosno logike medijskog događaja označavanja, nad samim pojmom proizvodnje djela/robe. Kao medijski uobličeni simulakri, modeli su oslobođeni reference na bilo kakvu stvarnost te ulaze u viralni proces nerazlikovanja.

Abstract (english)

In the age of the postmodern shift of the fashion paradigm, culture becomes the purpose of identity, that is, a specific form of (anti-)fashion. Only then does fashion become one of the relevant theoretical subjects for the interdisciplinary cultural studies. However, the emergence of visual culture has made the very methodology of cultural studies problematic. Apart from the analysis and criticism of the methodology of cultural studies, this paper will also elaborate on the alternative approach to postmodern fashion by Jean Baudrillard; an approach that belongs to the paradigm of the postmodern criticism of class differentiation theories and presents a kind of radicalization of the postmodern fashion theory. Baudrillard dismisses the widespread paradigm that views fashion through the prism of street clothing styles, instead approaching it as an aesthetic-media set. The real existence of fashion has only been made possible by the simulacrum of the media event. Instead of serial reproduction, modulation now encompasses the order of production so, according to Baudrillard, we are witnesses to determinism of operational simulation, that is, of the logic of the media event of denotation that is above the notion of production of goods itself. As simulacra formed by the media, models are liberated of any reference to any reality, entering the viral process of indiscrimination.

• Keywords: moda; kulturalni studiji; novi mediji; događaj; model
• Keywords (english): fashion; cultural studies; new media; event; model
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:002063
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Costume Design, Fashion Theory and Culture; Course: Fashion Theory and Culture; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2016-11-07 12:52:17