Tekstilno vlakno 21. stoljeća - vlakna školjkaša Mytilus galloprovincialis

master's thesis

• Author: Sara Strgačić
• Mentor: Edita Vujasinović (mentor)
• Committee member: Tanja Pušić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Edita Vujasinović (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Koraljka Kovač Dugandžić (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Jasminka Končić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Materials, Fibres and Textile Testing); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2021-09-29, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology

Abstract

Tekstilije proizvedene iz morske svile poznate pod nazivima morska vuna, zlatno vlakno ili vlakno Bogova bile su rezervirane za careve, kraljeve i moćnike drevnog Egipatskog i Rimskog carstva, a dobivale su se od školjke periske. Danas, takva proizvodnja gotovo da ne postoji, što zbog kompleksnosti i tajnosti procesa dobivanja niti, što zbog rastuće ugroženosti i zaštićenosti školjke periske. Zbog sve veće potražnje za novim izvorima tekstilnih sirovina čija je uporaba u skladu s načelima održivog dizajna te zbog današnje nemogućnosti iskorištavanja vlakana periske, u ovom diplomskom radu istražuju se vlakna drugog školjkaša, točnije mediteranske dagnje (lat. Mytilus galloprovincialis) kao alternativa tradicionalnoj morskoj svili te kao novi obnovljivi, biorazgradivi i ekološki prihvatljivi izvor sirovina za uporabu u modnoj i tekstilnoj industriji 21. stoljeća.

Abstract (english)

Textiles made of sea silk known as sea wool, golden fibre or the fibre of Gods were available only to the emperors, kings and other high class members. Such fabric was obtained from the noble pen shell, the largest shellfish of the Mediterranean which has been listed as an endangered species. The production of sea silk today is almost non-existent, due to the complexity and the secrecy of the thread obtaining process and due to the large protection of the pen shell. This thesis explores the byssus, thread complex of another bivalve mollusk, Mediterranean mussel (lat. Mytilus galloprovincialis) as an alternative to the traditional sea silk and as a new, renewable, biodegradable and environmentally friendly raw material source which can be used in the fashion and textile industry of the 21st century.

• Keywords: Pinna nobilis; Mytilus galloprovincialis; morska svila; vlakna mediteranske dagnje; održiva moda; tekstil za novo stoljeće
• Keywords (english): Pinna nobilis; Mytilus galloprovincialis; sea silk; byssus; mussel's byssal threads; sustainable fashion; new 21st century innovations in textile industry
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:347712
• Study programme: Title: Textile Technology and Engineering; specializations in: Clothing Engineering, Textile Design and Management, Industrial Textile Design, Industrial Clothing Design, Textile Chemistry, Materials and Ecology, Textile Chemistry, Materials and Ecology; Course: Textile Chemistry, Materials and Ecology; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilne tehnologije i inženjerstva (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilne tehnologije i inženjerstva)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Closed access
• Created on: 2021-12-10 11:32:37