Alexander McQueen kao inspiracija za kostimografiju filmskog serijala "Igre gladi" redatelja Garyja Rossa

undergraduate thesis

• Title (english): ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AS AN INSPIRATION FOR COSTUMOGRAPHY OF FILM SERIES „THE HUNGER GAMES“ BY GARRY ROSS
• Author: Martina Ružić
• Mentor: Marin Sovar (mentor)
• Mentor: Ivana Bakal (pomoć pri izradi, neposredni voditelj)
• Committee member: Mirna Rodić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Marin Sovar (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Ivana Bakal (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Helena Schultheis Edgeler (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2020-09-18, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

Ovaj rad bavi se kostimografijom filmskog serijala „Igre gladi" redatelja Garyja Rossa, bazirajući se najviše na drugi dio trilogije – „Plamen“, u kojemu je dizajnerica Trish Summerville, sa svojim briljantnim idejama odradila sjajan posao. Bila je uvelike inspirirana neponovljivim Alexanderom McQueenom, o kojem ću posebno govoriti. Čak je i Effie Tricket (Elizabeth Banks) obukla u kostime koje je dizajnirala nova glavna dizajnerica njegovog branda Sarah Burton. Uz tekstualni dio, za praktični dio rada kreirat ću vlastitu likovnu mapu s radovima koji su inspirirani kostimografijom iz serijala.
Kroz rad istražit ću kako kostimi koje je nosila glavna protagonistica Katniss Everdeen (Jennifer Lawrence) omogućuju državi da manipulira njezinim identitetom, dok ona, kroz razvoj situacije i shvaćanje igre u koju je upletena, razvija ograničen stupanj djelovanja (revolucije). Odjeća koju je nosila signalizira njezino sudjelovanje u nejednakosti moći, posebno spolu i klasi, a služi i kao trajni podsjetnik na njezinu smrtnost, krhkost i ovisnost o državnim refursima. Katniss je pasivno odjevena za namjene za koje su je predodredili drugi igrači, te naročito predsjednik Snow. Kostimi diktiraju i ograničavaju njezino ponašanje na unaprijed definirane načine, posebno na način da je "oblikuju" za seksualizirani muški pogled i istodobno učvršćujući njezin status žrtve vladajućeg sloja.

Abstract (english)

This final thesis is about costumography of very popular film series “The Hunger Games”, by Garry Ross, based on second part of triology - “Catching Fire” in which Trish Summerville, a designer, did a great job with her brilliant ideas. She was greatly inspired by one of a kind Alexander McQeen, whom I will talk about more later. Even Effie Tricket (Elizabeth Banks) was dressed in the Alexander McQueen's costumes, that were designed by the main designer of his brand - Sarah Burton. Beside textual part, I also illustrated my own collection of the costumes inspired by the series costumography.
Throughout the thesis I will do the research of how the costumes, that were worn by Katniss Everdeen (Jeniffer Lawrence), enabled the whole state to manipulate with her identity, while she, through the development of situation and trying to figure out The Games that she got into, develops certain point of influence (revolution). The wardrobe she wore signifies her participation in an unequal power, especially by sex and social status, and it’s used as a permanent reminder of her mortality, fragility, and addiction to resources of the state. Katniss is passively dressed for the purposes that other players determined her by, especially the president Snow. The costumes are dictating and limiting her behaviour in advance defined ways, especially the way to “form” her and bring attention as an “attraction figure”, and simultaneously firming her status, the victim of reigning kind.

• Keywords: kostimografija; „Igre gladi“; Trish Summerville; Alexander McQueen
• Keywords (english): costume design; The Hunger Games; Trish Summerville; Alexander McQueen
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:058652
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design; Course: Fashion Design; Study programme type: university; Study level: undergraduate; Academic / professional title: sveučilišni/a prvostupnik/ prvostupnica (baccalaureus/baccalaurea) inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (sveučilišni/a prvostupnik/ prvostupnica (baccalaureus/baccalaurea) inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Closed access
• Created on: 2020-10-08 07:58:09