Sredstvo klasne identifikacije - čipka kroz povijest

master's thesis

• Title (english): Class Identification - lace through history
• Author: Željka Kaurić
• Mentor: Katarina Nina Simončič (mentor)
• Committee member: Žarko Paić (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Katarina Nina Simončič (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Irena Šabarić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2019-12-19, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

Ovaj diplomski rad bavi se analizom čipke kao sredstvom klasne identifikacije kroz stoljeća. Opisuje razvoj od najranijih oblika proizvodnje do postindustrijskog razdoblja, što je uvjetovano ublažavanjem razlika u klasnim razinama.
Od 15. stoljeća povijest plemstva čvrsto je povezana s procesom formiranja centraliziranih država. U doba apsolutnih monarhija, prvenstveno vezanih uz razvoj robnih odnosa i odnosa s novcem, razvila se proizvodnja i značenje čipke.
U 16. stoljeću prevladava renesansni geometrijski stil, a tiskani predlošci postaju osnova za daljnji umjetnički i tehnološki razvoj čipke. Francuski dvor od 17. stoljeća, osobito u 18., postaje vodeći nositelj modnih trendova. Od Luja XIV. do danas, prije toga je to bio španjolski dvor. Modne trendove kopirali su drugi dvorovi i tako se njihova moda širila svijetom.

Abstract (english)

This paper deals with the analysis of Lace as a means of class identification, through the centuries. It describes the development from the earliest forms of manufacturing to the post-industrial era, which was conditioned by the alleviation of class differences. From 15th century, the history of nobility was firmly associated with the process of forming centralized states. In the era of absolute monarchies, primarily related to the development of commodity and money relations, the production and significance of lace has developed.
In the 16th century, the Renaissance geometric style prevailed, and the printed templates became the basis for further artistic and technological development of lace art. The French court dating back to 17th century, especially in the 18th century, becomes the leading fashion trend. From Luja XIV until today. Before that, it was a Spanish court. Fashion trends have been copied by other courts and so their fashion has been spreading to the world.

• Keywords: aristokracija; čipka; manufaktura; tehnike; povijesni stilovi
• Keywords (english): aristocracy; lace; manufactory; techniques; historical styles
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:828888
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Costume Design, Fashion Theory and Culture; Course: Fashion Theory and Culture; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Access restricted to students and staff of home institution
• Created on: 2019-12-19 10:12:37