Moda i društvo spektakla - modne revije i izvedba

master's thesis

• Author: Vlatka Kelemen
• Mentor: Žarko Paić (mentor)
• Committee member: Katarina Nina Simončič (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Silva Kalčić (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Fashion Design); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2017-09-28, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile and Clothing Design

Abstract

Modne revije su se razvile od ekskluzivnih prezentacija visoke mode unutar samih modnih kuća održavanih za privatne kupce, sve do spektakla koji objedinjuje visoku modu i ready-to-wear kolekcije. Njih danas ne promatraju samo privatni kupci, već i raznovrsni potrošači, cjelokupna modna industrija i masovno tržište putem prijenosa uživo. Brojne kulturološke i društvene sile su odgovorne za tu evoluciju, uključujući uspon modne industrije nakon Drugog Svjetskog rata, razvoj modelinga kao profesije, te povećane pažnje koju mediji daju modnim prezentacijama odjeće. Iako se revije danas razlikuju od onih s početka 20. stoljeća čiji je prikaz bio pretežito teatralan, one i dalje vuku sličnosti sa svojim korijenima. Period koji je obilježio najveću transformaciju modnih revija i pretvorio je u svojevrstan spektakl zasigurno su 90-te godine 20. stoljeća. To je vrijeme u kojem započinje postmoderna moda, koja se po Jean Baudrillardu više ne odnosi na vanjsku stvarnost i prazni sve dotadašnje znakove njihovih tradicionalnih značenja, ona fetišizira simbole radi njihove estetske kvalitete i ne referira se više na ništa drugo osim sama na sebe. Moda i modne revije 90-tih postaju simulakrum, stvarnije od same stvarnosti.

Abstract (english)

Fashion shows have evolved from exclusive high fashion presentations within the fashion houses held for private customers, all the way to a spectacle that combines high fashion and ready-to wear collections. Today, they are not only seen by private customers, but also by diverse consumers, the entire fashion industry and the mass market through live streams. Numerous cultural and social forces are responsible for this evolution, including the rise of the fashion industry after the World War II, the development of modeling as a profession and the increased attention given by the media to fashion presentations of clothing. Although the today shows are different from those of the beginning of the 20th century, whose performance was predominantly theatrical, they continue to have similarities with their roots. The period that marked the greatest transformation of fashion shows and turned into a spectacle was certainly in the '90s of the 20th century. This is the time when postmodern fashion begins, which is no longer related to the external reality of Baudrillard, and empties all the signs of their traditional meanings, it is a phenomenon of symbols for their aesthetic quality and no longer refers to anything other than itself. Fashion and fashion shows in the '90s become simulacrum, more real than reality.

• Keywords: moda; modna revija; stvarnost; izvedba; spektakl
• Keywords (english): fashion; fashion shows; reality; performance; spectacle
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:146907
• Study programme: Title: Textile and Fashion Design; specializations in: Fashion Design, Textile Design, Costume Design, Fashion Theory and Culture; Course: Fashion Design; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilnog i modnog dizajna)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Created on: 2017-10-10 07:44:37